#FA SDS DROP BOX SERIES#
#FA SDS DROP BOX CRACK#

Warning: we’ve had reports that the glue on the first bolt appears to have been damaged so don’t trust it and pre-clip the second to be safe.

Follow the juggy lip all the way left until it is possible to pull up onto the face at its left end via some juggy breaks.

#FA SDS DROP BOX CRACK#

We had to leave this line unclimbed for the time being as there is a snake living in the main crack of the roof.Įquipped by Stuart Millis, Boybi Sarmiento & Dennis Kwok (Oct 2021)Ī fun and over too quickly trip along the lip of the overhanging face. Crank up the wall above on small crimps to get established in the crack and then work you way right beneath the roof until it is possible to step back left on to the headwall above and the anchors at the top of this. Start as for The Scorpion and follow this to the second bolt. Compose yourself here before making desperate moves to gain the juggy break above and the lower-off.Įquipped by Stuart Millis & Boybi Sarmiento (Oct 2021) Power your way up through this to a good hold on the lip of the last roof. Continue left to good undercuts at the base of the stepped prow. Make bouldery moves up and left through the first roof.

Start on positive side pulls on the undercut wall on the right of the steep, stepped overhanging face. The king line of the crag, attacking it through the steepest portions possible. Essentially a V5 boulder line requiring the use of a rope. Follow this with considerably more ease to the anchor. From positive side pulls, get yourself established on the face before levitating up the next few metres using a variety of miserable crimps until it is possible to reach the shallow groove above. Start on the right side of the large boulder on the left of the overhung face. Note: The second bolt sits quite tight to the rock and requires a relatively narrow quick drawer to be clipped easily.įA: Stuart Millis, Lily Chow & Dennis Kwok (2021)

#FA SDS DROP BOX SERIES#

Step off the left side of the boulder and, starting from the positive jug, make a series of thin technical moves to get established on the slab above. A relatively fit party shouldn’t take much more the 35-40 mins to reach the crag from the village.įor reference, the return mini-buses run every half hour at X:25 and X:55 so try and time your walk out to coincide with this. Keep an eye out for a small trail on the left (currently very overgrown but with a small dark blue ribbon marker), just before a right turn in the trail, that takes you down to the crag itself. This gradually increases in elevation and will eventually bring you to just above the crag itself. When reaching the narrow spit connecting to a northern headland, double back south and continue on the trail running parallel to the coastline. Continue past the beach and follow the footpath around the coastline, passing the WWF Marine Education Centre on route.

From the end of the road, follow the path through the village towards the beach. 7 Green Mini-bus from Sai Kung Town Centre (or a taxi ride from Pak Tam Chung, which costs about $70). The crag is approached from Hoi Ha Village, which is accessed using the No. Dennis Kwok on the FA of The Scorpion (F7c) Photo: Stuart Millis Approach Although the routes are few in number, their quality and variety as well as the beautiful setting make this a very worthwhile venue for a day out. The large bloc near Lo Tsai Shek contains a handful of routes at grades between F6a and F7c, with potential for future development and The Scorpion being a strong (but hard) contender for the best F7c in the 852.

Fa sds drop box